I spent a week in Jeonju, but with a lot of work to do, I really devoted two days to sightseeing, taking my time. I could have done everything in one day, but I preferred to savor every moment.
Here’s my detailed itinerary of this fascinating city, designated as a City of Gastronomy by UNESCO, the birthplace of bibimbap and makgeolli, and home to one of South Korea’s largest Hanok villages.
Discovering Jeonju
A bit of history and culture
Located in North Jeolla Province, just two and a half hours by train from Seoul, Jeonju is a major cultural city and a historical gem of South Korea. Not to be missed!
Once the spiritual capital under the Yi dynasty, Jeonju played a crucial role in Korean history. Founded over a thousand years ago, the city was the cradle of the Joseon dynasty, one of the most influential in Korean history.
Jeonju is particularly famous for its Hanok Village, a true immersion in the past with over 800 traditional Korean houses (yes, really!). These dwellings, built using ancestral techniques, offer an authentic glimpse into traditional Korean architecture and lifestyle. Walking through the cobbled streets of the village, you are immediately transported to a time when modernity had not yet erased traces of the past.
Jeonju is also a prime destination for food lovers. The city is the birthplace of the famous bibimbap, a traditional Korean dish made of rice mixed with various vegetables, meats, egg, and chili paste. Besides bibimbap, Jeonju is known for its makgeolli, a fermented Korean rice wine appreciated for its slightly sweet and fizzy taste.
Hanok village: A journey back in time
Jeonju’s Hanok Village is a true gem that takes you back in time. More than 800 traditional houses, called hanoks, are perfectly integrated into modern daily life, surrounded by shops, cafes, and restaurants carefully set up. The tree-lined streets create a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere, perfect for a morning stroll.
What makes Jeonju’s Hanok Village so special is its perfect integration into daily life. It is not a museum frozen in time but a living place where locals continue to live and work. You will find craft shops, calligraphy workshops, quaint cafes, and restaurants. The streets gradually come to life from 11 a.m., when the shops open and visitors start to arrive.
Strolling early in the morning in Hanok Village is an experience not to be missed. The streets are calm, the little tourist cars are absent, and you can really appreciate the beauty of the place without the crowd. The soothing sound of water, the shade of well-trimmed trees, and the harmonious architecture of the hanoks create a perfect ambiance for a morning walk.
And of course, you can rent a Hanbok, the traditional costume mentioned in this post. It is one of the most popular activities in Hanok Village. Many small shops offer these colorful and elegant costumes.
Gyeonggijeon Shrine
One of the first must-see stops in Jeonju is the Gyeonggijeon Shrine. From the entrance, which costs 3000 won, you feel that you are about to discover a true historical treasure. The shrine is ideally located at the entrance of Hanok Village, facing Jeondong Cathedral, making it a perfect starting point to explore the cultural richness of Jeonju.
Upon arriving at Gyeonggijeon Shrine, I was immediately struck by the beauty and serenity of the place. The well-maintained gardens and traditional architecture offer a beautiful setting for photos. Many couples with large cameras and tripods can be seen there.
The main hall of Gyeonggijeon Shrine houses a true historical marvel: a portrait of King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon dynasty. And I must admit that I spent a long time admiring this meticulously preserved portrait. MA-GNI-FI-CENT.
Unfortunately, during my visit, the Royal Portrait Museum next to the shrine was closed. I was a bit disappointed as I had heard about the impressive collection of royal portraits it houses. However, this did not prevent me from fully enjoying the shrine.
Is it worth it? Yes, because some might say… Another temple… Once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all!!! Well clearly, yes, absolutely, it is worth it, even if it’s a matter of preference in the end. If you plan to visit Jeonju, make sure to include Gyeonggijeon Shrine in your itinerary. The combination of history, culture, and natural beauty makes this site a must-see.
Jeonjuhyanggyo: The Confucian school
Another place I loved. Located a bit away from Hanok Village, Jeonjuhyanggyo is an ancient Confucian school dating back to the Joseon dynasty. This site, less frequented by tourists, is a true oasis of tranquility. I barely saw two people during my visit. Okay, it was early. I took the time to sit on one of the wooden benches, enjoying the silence and beauty of the place. The centuries-old trees surrounding the school add a touch of serenity.
There are different buildings, each with its distinct characteristics and colors, accessible by passing through several successive gates, creating an almost ritualistic journey. It feels a bit like a secret garden.
As you might guess from the paragraph title, Jeonjuhyanggyo is not only a testimony to Confucian education during the Joseon era but also a remarkable example of traditional Korean architecture. The buildings are harmoniously arranged around a central courtyard, where ceremonies and classes once took place. The school was reserved for young nobles, the “yangban,” who received a rigorous education based on Confucius’ teachings.
Jaman Mural Village
A few steps from Hanok Village, nestled on the slopes of Seungamsan Mountain, lies Jaman Mural Village. This charming little village, which might seem slightly abandoned at first glance, is actually a true open-air art gallery, famous for its colorful murals adorning almost every street corner.
Leaving the peaceful streets of Hanok Village, you follow a steep path leading to the heart of Jaman Mural Village. The climb is steep, and you will probably feel your calves working hard. The walls of the houses, once monotonous, are now covered with vibrant frescoes and varied artworks, from scenes of Korean daily life to fantastic and abstract representations.
From the first meters, you are welcomed by an explosion of colors and creativity. The murals transform every corner of the village into a work of art. Local and foreign artists have united their talents to create a unique atmosphere where every wall tells a story. While wandering, you might encounter characters from fairy tales, dreamy landscapes, or historical scenes of Korean life. Each painted wall is an invitation to stop, observe, and immerse yourself in the artist’s imagination. There are even portraits of Matilda and Leon from Luc Besson’s film.
And of course, once at the top, your reward is a breathtaking view of Jeonju city and Hanok Village. From this elevated viewpoint, the traditional roofs of the hanoks stretch as far as the eye can see, creating a fascinating contrast with the city’s modernity in the background. It’s the perfect place to take photos and capture the beauty of Jeonju from a unique angle.
What truly sets Jaman Mural Village apart is its authentic atmosphere. Unlike other often overcrowded tourist attractions, this village maintains a certain tranquility and raw authenticity. The colorful houses and cobblestone streets evoke a rustic simplicity that pleasantly contrasts with the vibrant creativity of the murals.
Wanpanbon Culture Center
On the way between Hyanggyo Village and Omokdae Temple, don’t miss visiting the Wanpanbon Culture Center. This cultural center allows you to discover how books were made during the Joseon dynasty. It seems that Jeonju was a pioneer in culture and education, with a strong intellectual community that contributed to the development of book publishing.
Entering the Wanpanbon Culture Center, you are immediately transported to a time when culture and education were pillars of Korean society. The center’s walls are adorned with reproductions of old books and printing tools, illustrating the meticulous craftsmanship and innovation of the time. You discover how books were meticulously made, page by page, each character printed with stamps hand-carved in wood, with precision and devotion that commands respect.
Jeonju, as an intellectual center, played a crucial role in the development of culture and education in Korea. The Wanpanbon Culture Center highlights the city’s importance in the history of printing. Thanks to a community of passionate intellectuals, Jeonju stood out as a pioneer in book publishing.
During my visit, I was impressed by the richness of information and the quality of the exhibitions. Interactive demonstrations help better understand the different stages of bookmaking, from paper cutting to character printing. There are even workshops where you can try traditional printing, an experience both fun and educational. Reservations are required for this.
Personal reflection: Leaving the center, I felt a deep appreciation for Jeonju’s cultural heritage. This visit allowed me to better understand the importance of knowledge and heritage transmission.
Omokdae
Located on top of a small hill, Omokdae Temple is a haven of peace offering a breathtaking view of Hanok Village and its characteristic roofs.
The ascent (3 minutes at most 🤣) to Omokdae might make you sweat a little, but it is accessible for most visitors. The path, lined with lush vegetation, takes you through a bamboo forest. As you climb, you can hear the gentle rustle of leaves and feel the fresh air.
Reaching the top of the hill and discovering the panoramic view of Hanok Village is a reward in itself. From there, you can see the traditional roofs stretching out as far as the eye can see, perfectly aligned, creating a harmonious patchwork. This overview allows for a better appreciation of the beauty and architectural cohesion of the village. You feel transported to the past, with an overview that helps imagine daily life in these traditional houses.
Omokdae is a simple but charming site. The unique temple itself, although modest, exudes a beautiful aura, almost imposing. It’s a perfect place to sit, take a deep breath, and enjoy the calm. It’s not uncommon to find visitors sitting quietly, meditating, or simply enjoying the silence. You’ll notice chairs placed here and there in the shade of trees.
Jeondong catholic cathedral
In the heart of Jeonju, facing Gyeonggijeon Shrine, stands the majestic Jeondong Cathedral, another architectural gem of the city. Built between 1908 and 1914, this Catholic church is a rare example of Neo-Romanesque architecture in Korea, a style imported by French missionaries. It stands out with its red bricks and magnificent silver domes that sparkle in the sunlight. It’s a unique architecture in Korea. And I found it superb.
Jeondong Cathedral is a fascinating testament to Western influence on Korean architecture. Its distinctive domes and stone arches contrast with the curved roofs and wooden structures of Hanok Village, creating a unique urban landscape that harmoniously blends architectural styles. It’s this juxtaposition of tradition and modernity, East and West, that makes Jeonju so captivating.
Jeondong Cathedral is not only an impressive building; it also carries deep historical significance. It was built on the very site where many Korean Catholics were martyred during the religious persecutions of the 19th century. It’s a place of memory and respect for believers and visitors from around the world.
BONUS: Shopping in Jeonju: A perfect escape in rainy weather
Even in the rain, Jeonju doesn’t lose any of its charm, quite the contrary. During my stay, I discovered that the city offers a unique shopping experience, particularly enjoyable when the weather is fickle or even when it’s sunny. Jeonju’s shopping streets are often sheltered under large awnings, forming a sort of covered gallery that allows for strolling without worrying about the weather or scorching sun.
These sheltered streets, called “shopping arcades,” are lined with shops of all kinds, from clothing and souvenir stores to street food stalls and cafes. You can spend hours exploring without ever leaving this protected area.
Other informations
Throughout the city, you can rent mini golf carts to avoid walking. Remember to bring an umbrella and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun. From 11 a.m. onwards, the city starts to come alive with the opening of shops and the arrival of visitors. I even came across a group of about fifty children on a school outing. So, I changed sidewalks 🤣.
Why I loved Jeonju
Jeonju is a city that blends tradition and modernity harmoniously. Every corner reveals a part of its rich cultural and historical heritage. The people are warm and welcoming, and I really ate well (a complicated thing for me in South Korea, but I won’t dwell on that). Whether you’re a culture buff, a history enthusiast, or a foodie, Jeonju has something to offer everyone.
If you have more time than me:
- Visit the Hanok Village at night: The village lights up, and the atmosphere becomes magical.
- Eat the best Bibimbap in South Korea.
- Explore Nambu Market: Perfect for discovering local cuisine and buying souvenirs.
- Stroll along Jeonjuchun river: An ideal place for a peaceful walk.
Conclusion
If you have to choose between Jeonju and Gyeongju, know that even though both cities have a traditional village concept, the experience in Jeonju is unique and incomparable. I loved every moment spent in Jeonju, and I highly recommend this destination to anyone looking to discover the traditional heart of South Korea.
