There are artists who leave a profound and lasting mark on your life. For me, Johannes Vermeer is one of them. I’ve been fascinated for years by the serene beauty and subtle mastery of light in his paintings, but it was his masterpiece Girl with a Pearl Earring that truly captured my heart around 15 years ago.
It was with the desire to see this painting in person, and more importantly, to follow in the footsteps of the master in his hometown of Delft, that I decided to travel to the Netherlands. This trip was a true artistic pilgrimage, a journey back in time to meet one of the greatest geniuses of painting.
In this article, I’ll share with you my experience of this quest, through the cobbled streets and calm canals of Delft.
Vermeer and Delft, an Intimate Relationship
A Quiet but Immortal Painter
Johannes Vermeer’s name resonates in art history as one of the masters of the Dutch Golden Age. Yet, surprisingly, very little is known about his life. Born in 1632 in Delft, Vermeer spent almost his entire life in this peaceful town, far from major art centers like Amsterdam or Antwerp. Unlike Rembrandt, who enjoyed some fame during his lifetime, Vermeer was relatively unknown outside of his hometown. It wasn’t until several centuries after his death that his genius was fully recognized.
It was this deep connection between Vermeer and Delft that I wanted to explore. Upon arriving in this small, tranquil town, I wondered if its landscapes, light, and people had influenced his work, or if, as I suspected, Vermeer was a painter of the intimate, whose works reflected his inner life more than his surroundings. Either way, it seemed essential to walk in his footsteps to better understand his art.
Delft in the 17th Century
In the 17th century, Delft was a prosperous town known for its blue and white pottery—another lasting legacy of that era. In Vermeer’s time, it was an important commercial hub, crisscrossed by canals, with powerful guilds and a cultured bourgeoisie commissioning works of art.
Yet, despite this activity, Delft lacked the bustling energy of Amsterdam. It was a quiet, almost introspective town, much like Vermeer himself. This ambiance still lingers today, and I quickly soaked in the calm and serene atmosphere that reigns in its cobbled streets. In fact, I fell in love with Delft, even beyond the reason I came here.
Arriving in Delft: Marked by Anticipation
The First Encounter with the City
As soon as I arrived in Delft, I felt a strange mix of excitement and calm. It’s a human-sized city, where everything feels close, yet each corner offers a different charm. I knew I was in the right place to understand Vermeer. There are no imposing modern buildings disrupting the historical charm in the city center, and the whole town seems frozen in time.
As I walked along the canals lined with elegant houses and crossed the small brick bridges, I imagined Vermeer walking these same cobblestones, observing the world around him to capture fleeting moments. This is what I love most about Vermeer’s paintings: he seems to have captured a specific moment of life, in the intimacy of his subjects, and in the light, often through the gaze and the serene smile of his figures.
I could hardly wait to discover the key locations of Vermeer’s life, to absorb the atmosphere, and above all, to finally see his famous painting Girl with a Pearl Earring, which I had planned to view the following day in The Hague.
Vermeer Centrum Delft: A Journey into the Master’s Work
Immersed in Vermeer’s World
My first stop was the Vermeer Centrum Delft, located in the heart of the town. This center is a must-visit for any Vermeer enthusiast. While it doesn’t house any original works, it offers an immersive reconstruction of the life and work of the painter, with faithful reproductions of his paintings.
As soon as I stepped inside, I was transported into Vermeer’s universe. And I must confess something. Being there made me unexpectedly emotional, and I “stupidly” started crying. The ladies at the reception, so kind and not knowing what to do, sat me down with a glass of water in hand. 😅 Once I composed myself, I began my visit.
The center is thoughtfully organized to showcase the various stages of Vermeer’s career and the techniques he employed.
I spent hours examining these reproductions, immersing myself in every detail: the soft light flooding the rooms, the silky textures of fabrics, the enigmatic expressions of his characters. It’s a true homage to Vermeer’s art and an excellent introduction before seeing his original works.
The Importance of Light
One thing that has always fascinated me about Vermeer’s work is his treatment of light. The Delft center emphasizes how Vermeer used natural light to create intimate and vibrant compositions. Whether in The Milkmaid or Girl with a Pearl Earring, light always seems to play a central role, almost like a character in its own right.
Vermeer’s House: A Place Filled with Emotion
Following the Master’s Footsteps in the City
After this immersion at the Vermeer Centrum, I headed to Voldersgracht, the street where Vermeer’s house once stood. Unfortunately, nothing remains of the house itself, but standing on that very spot is a powerful moment for any art lover. I paused for a while, trying to imagine what this street looked like in Vermeer’s time, with its merchants, artisans, and perhaps children playing along the canal.
Vermeer spent almost his entire life in Delft, living in this house with his wife and their many children. He painted slowly and meticulously, producing only about thirty paintings over his career (as far as we know). I found that fascinating: an artist so prolific in technique but so limited in output, yet each work is a small masterpiece.
The Historic District and Its Secrets
As I wandered through this neighborhood, I felt as though I was reliving Vermeer’s era. Voldersgracht is not far from the Market Square, another iconic spot in Delft where Vermeer likely went regularly.
Today, the square is still lively, but it retains its old-world charm with the Town Hall and the New Church as its backdrop. I took a moment to sit at a café and observe the surroundings, wondering what Vermeer saw in his time.
The Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague: The Long-Awaited Moment
A Meeting with Girl with a Pearl Earring
To be completely honest, the main reason I came to the Netherlands was to see Girl with a Pearl Earring in person. The luxury of being nomadic: traveling to a country just for a painting. I love it!
This painting has always held an immense fascination for me. Nearly everywhere I’ve lived, I’ve had a print of Girl with a Pearl Earring on a wall. The mysterious expression of the girl, the contrast between the simplicity of her pose and the richness of the details—everything about this work speaks to me.
After exploring Delft, I made my way to The Hague, just a thirty-minute train ride away, to visit the Mauritshuis, where the painting is displayed. A moment of emotion, intense discovery—I’ll tell you more about it here.
Delft: A City of Art and History to Explore
Discovering Delft’s Other Treasures
Although my visit was largely focused on Vermeer, Delft has many other treasures to offer. After visiting Vermeer’s house and the Vermeer Centrum, I took the time to explore the New Church, where members of the Dutch royal family are buried, and the Old Church, with its famous leaning tower. These monuments add to the historical aura of the town and help to better understand the context in which Vermeer lived.
I also stopped by several of the small workshops dedicated to Delft’s famous blue pottery. Though quite different from Vermeer’s art, it’s fascinating to see how the town has preserved its artistic and craft traditions.
Bonus: The Four Vermeer Paintings at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam
As you can imagine, I’ve visited other Vermeer paintings in museums worldwide, such as the Louvre in Paris and the Met in New York. So, it was only natural to complete my collection by seeing the four pieces at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Among these gems is The Milkmaid, probably one of Vermeer’s most iconic works. This serene scene of a simple maid pouring milk is elevated by the incredible detail and soft light that envelops the moment, making it a painting of surprising depth and beauty.
Then there’s The Little Street, a rare outdoor scene in Vermeer’s oeuvre, showing a quiet street in Delft, with brick houses and a woman engaged in household tasks. The realism is striking, as if Vermeer captured a frozen moment in time, evoking the quietness of Dutch daily life.
The Rijksmuseum also exhibits The Love Letter, where a maid hands a letter to an elegant woman in a bourgeois interior. Here, Vermeer plays with light and the characters’ gazes to create a subtle play of tension and curiosity.
Finally, Woman Reading a Letter captures a moment of intense reflection. The woman’s serious expression and the intimate setting emphasize the importance of the message she’s reading. This is yet another demonstration of Vermeer’s unique talent for capturing the most subtle human emotions.
These four paintings, each different in subject matter, reveal the diversity of Vermeer’s work and showcase his genius in finding beauty in the simplest scenes. A visit to the Rijksmuseum is a unique opportunity to delve even deeper into the world of the master of light.
Conclusion
My journey tracing Vermeer’s footsteps in Delft was both enriching and emotional. I was able to get closer to an artist I deeply admire, better understand his world, and grasp his creative process. Delft is a city that breathes history and art, and I highly recommend anyone with a passion for painting, or anyone simply looking to explore an authentic corner of the Netherlands, to visit.
Following Vermeer’s steps is diving into a fascinating past, but it’s also discovering a vibrant town that continues to inspire artists and dreamers today.
