Kitano Ijinkan-Gai, located in Kobe, Japan, is a historic district renowned for its Western-style houses built in the late 19th century. At that time, Kobe opened up to international trade, attracting many foreigners who built their residences here. In true colonial style, they constructed homes resembling those from their home countries.
These houses, called “ijinkan” (foreigners’ houses), offer a fascinating contrast to traditional Japanese architecture and tell a unique story of cultural blending from that era.
Having lived in Europe until I was 29, visiting this district plunged me into a sweet nostalgia. I saw my grandmother’s dishes, my aunt’s lamp, and even the bed from my childhood at the neighbor’s who used to babysit me on Saturday nights. Today, I’m sharing my detailed adventure, secret discoveries, and tips for a truly enjoyable visit.
The history of Kitano Ijinkan-Gai
To truly understand the magic of Kitano Ijinkan-Gai, it’s essential to dive into its history. Kobe opened its ports to international trade in 1868, attracting merchants and diplomats from around the world. They built houses in the style of their home countries, creating a unique district where different cultures coexist. Today, each house tells a story.
The Uroko House: first stop
My visit starts with the Uroko House, also known as the “Scales House” due to its distinctive tiles resembling fish scales. Built in 1905, this house stands out with its impressive architecture, featuring two round towers and an elegant gray facade.
Entering the garden, there is a large boar statue whose snout you can rub for good luck.
Upon entering, the interior of the Uroko House reveals a true treasure trove of antiques. Each room is a time capsule filled with treasures from the past. Meissen porcelain, Tiffany lamps, every piece of furniture, every decoration makes the visit even more immersive.
Don’t miss the observation gallery on the second floor, at the other side of the house. The view of Kobe, with the distant port and buildings, is superb. The collection of paintings, including works by Matisse and Bernard Buffet, is quite nice.
The Yamate 8 Bankan House
The next house, Yamate 8 Bankan, reminded me of houses in northern Europe with its distinctive exterior architecture. Built at the end of the 19th century, this house is a great example of European influence on Japanese architecture of the time. With its clean lines and refined details, it evokes the elegance and sobriety typical of European bourgeois houses.
There is an impressive collection of bronze statues, including several works by Rodin, which is amazing!
At the heart of this house is the famous Saturn chair. According to legend, sitting in this chair and making a wish will make it come true. To be honest, I’ve been making the same wish for over 10 years, but it has never come true
Inside, the house is a harmonious blend of European and Japanese styles. Large windows let in natural light, highlighting the rich textures of the furniture and rugs. Each room is tastefully decorated, reflecting both the discreet luxury of Europe and the elegant simplicity of Japan.
The Foreigners’ Association
The Foreigners’ Association, or “Kobe Club,” was founded in 1869. It served as a meeting place for European and American expatriates living in Kobe. Entering this historic building immediately transports you to another era, where elegance and refinement were the norms.
From the moment you enter, the waltz music playing in the background envelops you in a romantic and nostalgic ambiance, reminiscent of the sumptuous balls of the 19th century. This enchanting melody accompanies your visit, adding a sensory dimension that immerses you even more in the bygone atmosphere.
Each room of the Foreigners’ Association is meticulously decorated to recreate the ambiance and lifestyle of expatriates of the time.
There is the maid’s room, a faithful reconstruction of the quarters of the servants who worked in these grand houses.
Then there’s the kitchen, which is particularly fascinating with its many copper utensils, shining under the dim light. These dishes and pots, carefully arranged, recall the European culinary tradition brought by the expatriates. Far from chopsticks and bowls of ramen!
The Foreigners’ Association was not just a residence but also a social center where balls, dinners, and other social events were held. The large reception halls, with their imposing chandeliers and walls adorned with paintings, testify to the intense social activity that prevailed there. Expatriates gathered here to exchange news, celebrate events, and maintain a connection with their home culture.
Hilltop House
The Hilltop House is a true gem of the Kitano Ijinkan-Gai district, renowned for its harmonious blend of Japanese and Western architecture. Built at the end of the 19th century, this house stands out for its unique combination of styles and cultural influences, offering a rich and fascinating visitor experience.
As you approach the Hilltop House, you are struck by how it blends architectural styles. The second floor, built of stone, contrasts elegantly with the rest of the house, which features typically Japanese elements. This mix creates a visual harmony that captures the essence of the time when East and West met.
Japanese influences are pervasive in the Hilltop House. Wooden statues and round doors typical of Japanese houses.
Inside the house, the atmosphere is decidedly regal. The Asian furniture is exquisite, with intricately carved and decorated pieces. The mother-of-pearl craftsmanship, inlaid in various pieces of furniture and decorative objects, adds a touch of luxury and refinement. Portraits of Japanese emperors hang on the walls.
Ben’s House
Ben’s House is a true cabinet of curiosities offering a unique experience.
Entering Ben’s House, you are welcomed by Aldo Ciccolini’s music. The musical compositions, known for their melancholy and depth, add a touch of mystery.
Ben’s House is a true maze of clearly eccentric treasures.
There’s the wall adorned with butterflies, African masks, stuffed animals, including antelopes and bears… It’s totally strange.
Each corner of Ben’s House deserves special attention. The objects are arranged to encourage exploration and discovery. The display cases, shelves, and walls are filled with details that gradually reveal themselves as you take the time to examine them closely.
The Yokan Nagayan House
As soon as I crossed the threshold of the Yokan Nagayan House, I was instantly transported to France.
The atmosphere here is a true homage to French culture, and every detail contributes to creating an immersive and slightly emotional experience for me.
Upon arrival, a sweet scent of lavender fills the air, the soothing perfume evoking the fields of Provence. The music of Amélie Poulain, omnipresent in each room, adds a melancholic and dreamlike touch, further enhancing the sensation of being in France. This blend of scents and melodies creates a wonderfully nostalgic ambiance that literally charmed me.
Each floor of the Yokan Nagayan House is a meticulous celebration of French culture, with reconstructions that capture the essence of the 1900s and 1800s. The displayed objects and decor evoke the romanticism and elegance typical of the period in France.
The most striking room for me is undoubtedly the recreation of Amélie Poulain’s bedroom. Entering this room, I felt as if I had stepped directly into the world of the film. The ceramic piggy bank lamp, the garden gnome, and other elements of the room are faithfully reproduced.
The other floors are also a visual treat. French scenes are present everywhere: from vintage posters to banquet decor, each item tells a story. The perfumes, furniture, and decorations are a tribute to Art Nouveau and Art Deco, with their elegant lines and refined patterns. These elements create an atmosphere reminiscent of Parisian salons of the past.
The English House
The final stop of my visit, the English House. This house is a vibrant tribute to England, with subtle yet pervasive references to British literature, history, and culture.
Each room seems to have been carefully arranged to reflect a specific period of English culture, from the 1980s to even earlier times.
At every corner of the house, references to iconic works of English culture are visible:
- Sherlock Holmes: The Baker Street subway station, a centerpiece of the house, pays tribute to the famous detective created by Arthur Conan Doyle.
- Harry Potter: Whether you’re a fan of Harry Potter’s adventures or just curious, these references add a touch of fantasy and nostalgia.
- Alice in Wonderland.
The house also captures the essence of 1980s England, with elements reminiscent of that era:
- The English Pub: The English pub is one of the highlights of the English House. With its traditional decor, dark wood paneling, and cozy atmosphere, it invites you to a well-deserved break.
- The Greenhouse and Garden: The greenhouse and garden of the English House complete the picture with their classic British charm. The greenhouse, with its lush plants and elegant design.
The English House offers a complete immersion into the British world. Every detail, from the decor to the furniture and collectible items, has been carefully chosen to create an authentic and evocative atmosphere.
Tips and tricks for a successful visit
- Kitano Ijinkan-Gai can be visited in 2 or 3 hours for the full package at 3300 yen (basically, you see ALL the houses. There are cheaper passes with a limited number of houses. Personally, I recommend seeing everything, as each house is completely unique.
- Don’t limit yourself to the most famous houses. The small adjacent streets are full of small shops, cafes, and art galleries worth exploring. Even the bus that tours the district reflects the foreigners’ houses.
Conclusion
I loved this visit and as I left, I reminded myself that I was in Japan! Kitano Ijinkan-Gai is a journey through time and cultures, where each house tells a unique story.
If you go to Kobe, add this visit to your itinerary and explore every corner.