Kyoto, the city of a thousand temples, is famous for its traditional festivals that attract visitors from around the world. Among them, the Gion Festival, or Gion Matsuri, is undoubtedly the most iconic. I was lucky enough to attend this incredible event.
Join me on a journey through the bustling streets of Kyoto, at the heart of this millennia-old festival.
The history of the Gion Festival
The Gion Festival dates back to 869, when a plague ravaged Kyoto. To appease the spirits and invoke the protection of the gods, Emperor Seiwa ordered a special ceremony at Yasaka Shrine. Since then, the festival has become an annual event in July, celebrating Japanese culture, religion, and traditions. Every year, Kyoto comes alive with processions, dances, and sacred rituals.
I repeat, for 1155 years, this festival has taken place every year… I find that incredible!
Festival preparations
Preparations for the Gion Matsuri begin well before July. The residents of Kyoto, known as the “Gion Eiyu,” devote months to planning and preparation. The participating neighborhoods, or “Yamaboko-cho,” build traditional floats called “yama” and “hoko,” adorned with tapestries, sculptures, and artworks.
From the moment I arrived in Kyoto, the excitement of the festival was palpable. The streets were decorated with lanterns and colorful banners, and the atmosphere was imbued with a festive energy.
The next day, I had the opportunity to watch the preparations of some floats in the Gion district. Seeing the residents working together in a spirit of community and tradition was inspiring!
I also took the chance to go inside one of the floats to get a closer look. When visiting a float, the prices vary, ranging from 500¥ and up, depending on the decorations and exhibits inside. I visited the inside of a float for 500¥, where I admired photos, hangings, and lots of sake. The volunteers, often a bit tipsy, guide visitors through the activities.
Photos are theoretically prohibited inside the floats, but it’s amusing to see the Japanese breaking this rule, so thrilled they are to share the experience.
Discovering the floats
A few days before the grand parade, the floats are displayed in various neighborhoods of the city. There are 21 in total, of all sizes, from the smallest to the most imposing. Each float is a work of art in itself, decorated with beautiful hangings and delicate sculptures. It is possible to visit the inside of some floats by purchasing a ticket for about 1500¥. It’s a spiritual as well as cultural experience, and of course, a commercial opportunity, with many shops offering festival-themed souvenirs. I, myself, succumbed and bought a few keepsakes.
The streets become almost pedestrian-only and are filled with a massive crowd of Japanese people in traditional attire. The lines stretch for hours to visit the floats and admire the decorations up close. Some floats are still being assembled, while others arrive in the city, accompanied by musicians in traditional costumes.
I often wondered if the Japanese collect fans and other festival items, coming back each year to enrich their collection.
Yoiyama: the night before the parade
During this traditional Japanese festival, you are truly immersed in the local culture, sharing moments of conviviality with the Japanese who are relaxing and having fun. It’s a precious experience beyond the festivities themselves.
The nights leading up to the parade, called Yoiyama, are also a highlight of the festival.
The two nights before the parade, Kyoto’s main arteries become pedestrianized, filled with food and craft stalls. I went to take photos and taste local delicacies, but the crowd was so dense that I had to turn back. Despite this, by moving a bit away, I found quieter alleys where the floats were displayed and illuminated.
The streets, though pedestrianized, are organized with a unique walking direction, facilitating pedestrian flow. This gives an idea of the scale of the crowd and the logistics needed to manage such an event.
Yamaboko Junko: the float parade
The float parade, or Yamaboko Junko, is undoubtedly the highlight of the festival. It takes place on July 17 and 24 and attracts huge crowds, with many more floats on July 17.
On the day of the parade, which starts at 9 AM, people arrive as early as 8 AM to settle along the routes. At 8:30 AM, it’s still possible to find a good spot. And guess who was there at the crack of dawn to be in the front row? IT’S ME!!!
Traffic lights are dismantled, and some Japanese even bring folding chairs for more comfort. The parade, which lasts about 2.5 hours, is a fascinating spectacle where large and small floats follow one another, pulled by hand by men in traditional costumes, from head to toe.
The majestic floats parade through the streets of Kyoto, accompanied by traditional music and chants. Each float has a particular meaning and is decorated with motifs that tell stories from Japanese folklore.
The floats are adorned with incredible details, and each group wears unique costumes, from shoes to original hats.
Once the parade is over and in the days that follow, you can see the floats being dismantled, which allows you to see the ropes and the complexity of the structures.
Conclusion
I loved this experience so much. It was fabulous; the floats were majestic, and I loved being at the heart of an event so rooted in traditions. I came to Japan in July for this second trip specifically for this event. And even though July comes with intense heat and humidity, it was so worth it, just to attend the Gion Festival.
A festival that deserves to be experienced at least once in a lifetime for its magical atmosphere and its ability to bring people together in joy and celebration.
