During my recent trip to Seoul, I had the chance to visit the magnificent Changdeokgung Palace. This jewel of Korean architecture is not only a fascinating historical site but also a true haven of peace amidst the bustling capital. Through this account, I invite you to discover this exceptional site, its secrets, and its wonders, as if you were there.
Arrival and first impressions
From the moment I arrived at the palace, I was struck by the serene atmosphere. Unlike other palaces in Seoul, such as the famous Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung stands out with its vast open spaces and more intimate ambiance. Visitors are welcomed by majestic gates located at the four cardinal points, giving the impression of entering another world, far from the urban tumult.
The charm of the hanbok
A charming feature of visiting Changdeokgung is that admission is free for those wearing the hanbok, the traditional Korean costume. And I must say, it’s the perfect place in Seoul to wear it rather than in other temples.
As I strolled through the palace alleys, elegantly clad in Hanbok, I encountered many other visitors dressed in these colorful outfits, adding a touch of authenticity and beauty to the experience. If you don’t have a hanbok, admission is still affordable.
Breathtaking architecture
Changdeokgung Palace is a true masterpiece of Korean architecture. Upon entering this majestic place, I was immediately captivated by the complexity of its buildings. The roofs, adorned with blue tiles, rise gracefully towards the sky, adding an elegant touch to the ensemble. These tiles, called “giwa,” are characteristic of traditional Korean architecture and give the buildings a harmonious look.
The palace walls are painted with motifs from the Joseon era. Ochre and teal green dominate, contrasting pleasantly with the blue roofs. These colors were not chosen at random; they have profound symbolic meaning. Ochre, for example, represents earth and stability, while teal green symbolizes nature and vitality. Together, they illustrate the balance and harmony sought by the architects and artisans of the time.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Changdeokgung’s architecture is undoubtedly the paintings that decorate the beams and wood slices. These motifs, often floral or nature-inspired, are executed with precision. Every detail seems to tell a story; each flower and bird painted on the woodwork adds an extra dimension to the palace’s visual richness. These paintings are not just decorative; they also carry cultural symbols and meanings.
Looking up at the ceilings, you discover meticulously painted scenes representing elements of Korean mythology, everyday life scenes, or complex geometric patterns.
The palace columns are also a key element of its architecture. The column bases, often carved with lotus flower motifs, symbolize purity and spiritual awakening.
As you wander through the various palace buildings, you can’t help but admire the symmetry and precision with which they were designed. Each pavilion and room is positioned to create a perfect balance with its surroundings. This harmony results from a deep understanding of the principles of geomancy, or “pungsu-jiri,” a traditional Korean science aimed at harmonizing human constructions with natural forces.
Varied spaces
What truly distinguishes Changdeokgung from other palaces in Seoul is the variety of its spaces. As soon as you pass through the palace gates, you are greeted by vast open courtyards, where the sky seems infinite. These open spaces offer a panoramic view of the buildings.
But the charm of Changdeokgung also lies in its narrow, winding alleys. Walking these paths feels like getting lost in a labyrinth. Each turn reveals a new pavilion, a new garden, or a new courtyard.
These alleys resemble the streets of a small traditional village, with finely carved wooden doors and pavilions scattered here and there. Visitors can stroll leisurely, taking time to explore every corner. This diversity of spaces makes Changdeokgung so captivating and photogenic. You never know what you will discover around the next bend, and this uncertainty makes the visit so exciting.
The gardens, courtyards, and pavilions are harmoniously integrated into the surrounding natural landscape, creating a perfect fusion between architecture and nature. Centuries-old trees and colorful flowers add a touch of life and color to the stone and wood buildings. Each season brings its transformations, making each visit unique. A good reason to return to South Korea!
The secret garden: Huwon (Oh No!)
One of the undeniable highlights of visiting Changdeokgung is its Secret Garden, known as Huwon. Unfortunately, I missed it because I wasn’t organized, but I did my research. Here are the secrets of this garden and tips to avoid making my mistake and have the chance to visit it.
This garden was once reserved exclusively for the royal family. Huwon is a place of calm and serenity, where one can recharge and reconnect with nature.
As I mentioned, accessing Huwon requires some planning. Visits are strictly regulated and limited to certain times: 10:30 AM, 12:30 PM, and 2:30 PM. It is therefore essential to reserve a spot in advance to ensure you can enjoy this hidden gem. During my visit, I unfortunately learned this rule the hard way. Arriving at 11:15 AM, I found available slots for the 12:30 PM visit. Thinking I had time, I took a few minutes to chat with other visitors. But upon my return, the 12:30 PM slots had already disappeared, leaving only the 2:30 PM ones. This mishap taught me the importance of booking as soon as you arrive to avoid any disappointment.
Once inside, the garden extends over a vast area, dotted with pavilions, small bridges, and ponds. Every element of the garden is carefully designed to create a harmonious and soothing landscape. The trees provide shade and coolness, while flowers and plants add touches of color and fragrance.
Huwon’s pavilions are scattered throughout the garden. Some are perched on hills, while others are nestled by the water. These pavilions were used by the royal family to relax, meditate, or simply enjoy the natural beauty around them.
Practical tips for a successful visit
To make the most of your visit to Changdeokgung, here are some practical tips:
- Arrive early and allow plenty of time: Slots for the Secret Garden are limited and fill up quickly. The palace and its garden deserve a detailed visit, so don’t be in a hurry.
- Palace Access Hours: Changdeokgung Palace is open to visitors every day except Monday. Opening hours are generally as follows: March to May: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM // June to August: 9:00 AM – 6:30 PM // September to October: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM // November to February: 9:00 AM – 5:30 PM.
As for the Secret Garden (Huwon), visits are guided and take place at specific times: 10:30 AM, 12:30 PM, and 2:30 PM. It is recommended to check the current schedule before your visit, as it may vary.
- Wear a hanbok: Not only will you save on admission, but you will also add a traditional touch to your visit.
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Admission Fees: Admission to Changdeokgung Palace costs about 3,000 KRW (around 2.30 EUR) for adults and 1,500 KRW (around 1.15 EUR) for children and youths (aged 7 to 18). Access to the Secret Garden (Huwon) requires an additional ticket that costs about 5,000 KRW (around 3.85 EUR) for adults and 2,500 KRW (around 1.90 EUR) for children and youths. Prices may vary, so it is advisable to check the current rates before visiting.
Visiting Changdeokgung Palace is a truly delightful experience that immerses you in Korean history and culture. Every corner of this palace tells a story, and every pavilion and garden invites contemplation. If you have the chance to visit Seoul, don’t miss this hidden gem that offers a true journey back in time.
Upon leaving the palace, I felt a deep sense of serenity and wonder. Changdeokgung is not just a tourist site; it’s a place where history comes to life.
So, prepare your hanbok, book your spot for the Secret Garden, and let yourself be transported by the magic of Changdeokgung.
Bon voyage !
