I fell in love with this island the moment I stepped out of the airport. Arriving at night, the day had been cloudy and everything was shrouded in mist. The air carried that unique island vibe that those who have been to islands will understand.
Day 1: Exploring Seongsan Ilchulbong, the market, and Haenyeo divers
Seongsan Ilchulbong
decided to kick off my adventure with Seongsan Ilchulbong. There are two paths to climb Seongsan Ilchulbong. One is paid and takes you to the top of the crater, while the free one just circles around the base. It costs 5000 won for adults and please note it’s closed every Monday.
The journey begins on a path paved with volcanic rock, which is quite picturesque but tough on the calves. Then it transitions into proper concrete steps. It’s very well constructed with separate paths for going up and down. Despite being in nature, there are speakers along the way providing information about the site in Korean and English.
Halfway up, you encounter a large rock known as “Horn Rock.” Locals customarily blow a horn four times as they pass by: twice for prayers to God and twice for the general who sacrificed himself to protect the country. The climb involves many steps and is quite steep but only lasts about 15 minutes. For those with shorter legs like myself, it might take 20 minutes. As you ascend, spectacular views of the sea and Jeju Island unfold.
At the second-last observation point, there’s a final steep staircase. I found it quite beautiful with its volcanic rock steps and wooden railings blending into nature. At the summit, you almost feel like you’re inside the crater, surrounded by lush greenery. I visited on a cloudy day, but I imagine on sunny days, the contrast between the greenery and the blue ocean must be stunning. The place is filled with the loud chirping of many birds. At the top, there’s a large terrace with plenty of steps and spots to sit and admire the spectacular view. Afterward, you continue the walk down another path that provides a different view of Jeju Island.
As you descend, you come across an absolutely beautiful black sand cove. This is where you can observe the highly regarded Jeju Haenyeo divers.
Haenyeo divers on the beach
I don’t know if it’s the weather or the smell of the sea, but this place had a special aura. The black sand beach, tourists posing on the rocks, and various setups for divers like nets, boots, harnesses, and semi-submerged pontoons—all against the backdrop of towering cliffs over this cove. The scenery is magnificent. Far out on the rocks, you can see birds perched proudly. Around the beach, the rocks form waves carved by the sea. It’s sublime.
Since I was there outside the diving hours, I didn’t get to see them.
Jeju Market: A burst of flavors and colors
During my stay, a visit to Jeju’s bustling market was a must, a paradise for food lovers and those curious about local culture. The market is filled with colorful stalls offering juicy tropical fruits, fresh locally grown vegetables, and freshly caught fish. The tempting aroma of street food wafts through the air, inviting you to sample delicious treats like perfectly ripe mandarins, grilled seafood skewers, and other local specialties. It’s where the flavors of Jeju come alive, providing an authentic culinary experience.
A culinary break: Jeju mandarins
After all these explorations, a break is necessary to taste the famous Jeju mandarins. They are delicious and refreshing, perfect for recharging before continuing the adventure.
Day 2: The south coast and its waterfalls
Imagine yourself immersed in a landscape where the East China Sea meets towering cliffs, and every corner reveals a new natural wonder to behold.
The adventure begins with the tranquil Sojeongbang Waterfall, where crystal-clear water cascades over rocks into a serene pool, offering a moment of peace away from urban hustle. The trail winds through bamboo and wooden walkways to the spectacular Jeongbang Waterfall. Unique in its kind, this 23-meter waterfall plunges directly into the ocean, creating a breathtaking sight that even the best observation platforms couldn’t rival.
Between waterfalls, a stop at the Seobok Exhibition Hall delves into Jeju’s history and culture, showcasing fascinating artifacts dating back to the era of Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi, providing a captivating glimpse into the region’s ancient wealth.
Continuing the exploration, the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall unfolds, surrounded by dense forest where local folklore tells of a sacred dragon residing long ago. At 22 meters high with a deep blue basin, this waterfall embodies both the majesty and mythology of Jeju, transporting you to a world where nature and legend harmoniously converge.
Finally, conclude this magical day at Jusangjeollidae, where basalt rock formations sculpted by volcanic activity offer a breathtaking panorama of the coast. Here, you’ll feel at one with nature, lulled by the sound of waves crashing against rocks and the cries of seabirds, while capturing unforgettable moments with newfound friends.
For all the details of this second day, you can read the article I wrote about it here.
My stay in Jeju was a beautiful experience, marked by the exceptional natural beauty of the island. Despite the lengthy bus rides (read the article here), Jeju Island is truly worth it.
Each site impressed me with its raw beauty and seamless integration into Jeju’s natural environment.
