Among the cultural gems scattered across Japan, the Byōdō-in Temple, a Buddhist temple located in Uji near Kyoto, stands out for its rich history and sublime architecture. Upon arriving, I realized that this was the temple depicted on the 10 yen coins, a small detail that adds to its charm and historical importance.
Byōdō-in was founded in 998 by Fujiwara no Michinaga, a powerful aristocrat of the Heian period. Initially built as a private villa, it was transformed into a Buddhist temple in 1052 by his son, Fujiwara no Yorimichi. Today, this temple is one of the few examples of Heian period architecture that has survived the ravages of time.
The Phoenix Hall: an architectural masterpiece
The centerpiece of Byōdō-in is undoubtedly the Phoenix Hall (Hōō-dō), constructed in 1053. It’s a very bright and elegant building.
The Phoenix Hall is named after the two bronze phoenixes adorning its roof, symbolizing resurrection and immortality.
The architecture of the Phoenix Hall is unique, with its symmetrical wings and central pavilion reflecting harmoniously in the surrounding pond. This layout creates a perfect mirror image, giving the impression that the building is floating on the water.
Inside, there’s a wooden statue of the Amida Buddha, carved by Jōchō, one of the greatest artists of the Heian period, but I didn’t have the chance to see it. I’ll explain why below.
I arrived at the opening time, as I often do when visiting temples. The weather was beautiful, and at the entrance, there were already about twenty people waiting for it to open. The cicadas were already singing, heralding a rather hot day.
I started by visiting the surrounding gardens, enjoying the view of the temple’s reflection on the water, and exploring other pavilions.
Inside the Phoenix Hall
Then, when I wanted to get my second ticket to see the inside of the temple, it was already sold out, and I had to wait for the next visit in 1.5 hours. Since there wasn’t much else to see in the meantime and any exit is final, I decided to skip it.
During your visit, I REALLY recommend going straight to the queue for your second ticket even if it means waiting a bit. If you arrive half an hour before the visiting hours, there might be no tickets left, and the next visit will be 1.5 hours later, as I experienced. Visits start at 9 am, 9:30 am, and then at 4:30 pm, so it’s crucial to plan your day well.
Similarly, I don’t recommend arriving at the opening at 8:30 am like I did, because although the site is then less crowded, everything is closed: shops, stalls, and artisans. This can make the wait a bit long if you want to explore the surroundings after your temple visit.
The gardens of Byōdō-in
Byōdō-in is not just a temple; it’s also a haven of peace surrounded by beautiful gardens, carefully landscaped.
The gardens of Byōdō-in are designed in the traditional Heian era style, with ponds, wooden bridges, and meticulously pruned trees. Each element of the garden is meant to symbolize a part of the Buddhist paradise. In July (the month of my visit), you are truly immersed in nature with the sound of cicadas and birds, surrounded by trees with various shapes and curves.
I imagine Byōdō-in Temple is stunning in all seasons. In spring, the cherry blossoms must create a dazzling spectacle, while in autumn, the maples turn fiery colors.
The city of Uji
Uji is a small town known for its green tea production and picturesque landscapes. The Uji River meanders peacefully through the town.
Since I arrived early, most of the shops were closed, so I didn’t really get to experience the city’s atmosphere.
Conclusion
My visit to Byōdō-in was somewhat short since I couldn’t see everything.
But what is certain is that this temple, with its majestic Phoenix Hall, serene gardens, and rich cultural heritage, embodies the essence of the Heian era and the timeless beauty of Japan.
If you visit the temple, consider exploring the city of Uji as well.
